SANCTUARY: May 2008

This is my sixth trip to Bangkok, and it’s already the second trip since the beginning of 2008. And I even stay in the same hotel! Windsor Suite Hotel at Sukhumvit Soi 20. Luckily I am not staying in the same room too. I was here in March for the IPPF Stigma Index Workshop. It’s always good to see old friends and new friends. After 15 minutes entering my room, Goh called me and told me that APN was holding a cocktail party downstairs and I may want to join to see my friends there. So, I rushed down and found a lot of people were already there. I met some friends from Indonesia whom I had been missing a lot. Too bad it was just a short meeting because they had to go home that night.

Rachel was not feeling well that night, so she went up to her room right after she met me. So, I hang out with Pascal, Felicia, Jennifer and Rathi. We went out for dinner at Arirang, a Korean Restaurant nearby. We had a sumptuous barbecued dinner there and talking like mad. After dinner, Jennifer asked us to have some drinks at Tapas Room in Silom. Silom is close to Patpong area, and there are plenty of bars and clubs there. Everyone had alcoholic drinks except me. I don’t know why I cannot enjoy alcohol anymore now. So, what’s the use of drinking it if I can’t enjoy? So, I chose Coke. That was just the best for me. It’s been a while since the last time I went out to a club. Well, for this one, we didn’t really enter the club because most of us were smokers, so we just sat at the terrace, where the smokers are most welcome. Thailand had declared a war against cigarettes, so, all indoor venues are non-smoking venues. Thank God this club has a terrace!

Felicia, Rathi and me went ahead. The next day was an early day, and it was already midnight. I was going to stay for a while with Pascal and Jennifer, but Rathi fell over Jen when she was standing up from her seat, so I decided to go with them. Just in case… We took a taxi to the hotel and I had to bring Rathi up to her room because she was the most drunken one. She looked awful! She was feeling sick already in the taxi, and all the way to the hotel, I kept my fingers crossed, praying for her not to puke in the taxi.

Well, I’m not going to talk about the whole process of the meeting because it was [again] as boring as other meetings. Vince announced that I will be the speaker at the UN High Level Meeting in New York. And suddenly many people were putting their hopes on my shoulder. It was kind of awkward because I’m afraid I can’t represent them in the meeting! But it’s okay. I was glad enough to jot down their issues to be taken to the UN meeting.

On the last day, Rachel gave us a treat at the Basillico, an Italian restaurant just across the hotel. It was nice. It was Frika, Rachel, Jennifer, Pascal, Felicia and Jeff. Jeff is Jennifer’s boss. He works for AMFAR and based in Bangkok. After dinner, Jennifer proposed to have some drinks [again!]. This time, we chose Sirocco at the State Tower building. I was so excited because I’ve read the news coverage around that bar and all were nice! So, we went back to the hotel because Rachel needed to get her medicines and suddenly I had the urge to change my clothes. I wanted to have a good time! We went by 2 taxis to the State Tower building. Frika, Jennifer and Jeff were in the first taxi. Rachel, Felicia, Pascal and I were following them. It was a nice building. And Pascal told us that it used to be a government building until one rich lady bought it and turn it into a hotel and bar. It’s quite a fancy place. When we were approaching the elevator, the greeter from Sirocco bar came to us and told us that they have dress code there. I knew that, and I felt so relief that I changed my clothes and sandal. But, alas, Rachel was wearing her Birkenstock! And the greeter bluntly saying that “I’m sorry, ladies sandal is okay. But all kinds of Birkenstock and Croque are not allowed.” My God! She mentioned the brands! And those brands are not cheap brands, for God’s sake! I don’t know what the story behind that weird banning regulation. All I know they wouldn’t allow short pants, ripped jeans and flip-flops. That’s it! I never knew that they actually ban certain brands! Rachel was quite upset. She’s always been the one who dresses up all the time and looking perfect. Pascal and Felicia were trying to calm her by telling her that we will be in Bangkok again in the next 2 weeks, so we can always go back later. But for Rachel, it wasn’t the matter of time of going back there. It was the rejection that matters! Anyway, Felicia called Jennifer to tell her that we couldn’t get in. They were already in but luckily they hadn’t ordered any drinks yet. So, we decided to find other place to go. It’s not only the place. The togetherness was far more important to us. Then, we decided to go the Brown Sugar bar. I’ve been passing that place for several times. So, off we go to the Brown Sugar bar.

The place was small and packed. But it gave different ambience to us. It was overall a cozy place, except for the fact that we had to take turns for cigarettes. Hahahaha! It was hell of a great time anyway! We talked and talked and talked and talked about everything. Gossiping, harassing each other, telling secrets, telling embarrassing stories. We talked about everything except about work! So good not to talk abut work for a while. Just bitching around ourselves! Finally, we had to leave the bar [even though we were still comfortable there!], because they were closing at 1 AM. So, we bid goodbye to everyone there. Felicia was already left ahead. Rachel, Pascal and I were taking a taxi together. Frika and Jen were taking a taxi together because they stay at the same apartment. And Jeff just walks! His house was just a walking distance from the Brown Sugar bar. It’s just around the corner. How convenient!

By the way, this time, I have a back-to-back trip to Vientiane from Bangkok because I have to attend the ASEAN meeting there. Up until my departure to Bangkok, I didn’t receive my ticket for Vientiane. I informed the ASEAN staff regarding my hotel in Bangkok and hoping that someone would send my ticket there. But the fact was I didn’t get anything when I arrived there! I knew that 1^st of May was a public holiday in Indonesia. Shiba and Baby also haven’t got their tickets. I just received an email that says my flight to Vientiane from Bangkok is at 11.45 AM. That’s it! It was Sunday when I was panicking, because I would have to check out on Monday and move myself to Baby’s lodging. The ASEAN staff in Indonesia asked me to call the Bangkok travel agent, but they were closed on Saturday and Sunday.

The tension was not ended yet. When I texted Baby that I would be on my way to her place soon, she replied and told me it was okay for me to take a taxi. It would be no traffic jam because that Monday was a public holiday. WHAT????!!!! A PUBLIC HOLIDAY??? What about my ticket to Vientiane??? I was going frantic panic. I sent text to the ASEAN staff in Indonesia, telling him that I have no idea how to get my ticket because it’s been a long weekend until Monday in Thailand. I bet my last Baht, he was going frantic panic too in his office! Hahahaha! 30 minutes later he sent me a reply, saying that he would try to get an e-ticket for me, Baby and Shiba. Meanwhile…. I decided to enjoy myself at Khaosan Road. Try to run away from the reality that I haven’t got my ticket for my next trip. I was a bit disturbed because my ticket to Bangkok was a one way ticket. I arranged ASEAN to fly me back to KL from Vientiane. So, if I couldn’t get my ticket to Vientiane, I had to figure out how I should go back to KL! That was quite a disturbing thought. So, I decided to pretend that everything would be okay.

The lodging that Baby stays in Khaosan Road was modest but enough. Khaosan Road is in another part of Bangkok. It’s full with foreigners. Young foreigners. It’s different to Sukhumvit area which always packed with old foreigners. This area is merrier. More alive and dynamic. It’s more like Kuta and Legian but without the beach. We could find anything there! Very interesting place. The first thing that I did after I put my suitcase in the room and change my clothes was to check my email. It was a big relief when I saw the subject of the email was: E-TICKET BKK – VTE – BKK – KL MRS. SUKSMA RATRI. I opened the email and printed the e-ticket right away. I saw that it was an 8 PM flight. Great! So, I will be on the same flight with Baby! “Now I can REALLY relax!” I thought…

I spent the day enjoying myself in the sun with Baby. We were talking about many things. Trying to catch up with each other’s gossips as we rarely seen each other [even when we were in Indonesia, and now it gets worse after I moved to KL]. We were just wandering back and forth on the Khaosan Road. I was so glad I moved to this area, even it’s only for a day! At least I saw the other side of Bangkok which was merrier.

We went out again to have dinner after having a shower. After 5 PM the road is closed for cars, so people can walk freely. The only disturbing thing was just the police patrol car that slowly moved every 45 minutes or so. When the police car was approaching, all the sellers of flea market hurriedly rushed into the lanes. The lanes in this area used to be a strategic place for drugs trade. Maybe that’s why the police kept patrolling the area. After feeling some sore feet feeling, we decided to get some drinks and sat on the sidewalk. It was 10 PM already and the live music from the bar across the street had already begun. We didn’t need to go inside, we could actually listen from the sidewalk. So, we sat and continue our chat until midnight. When the clock reached midnight, we went back to the lodging, packed our things and get some rest.

We woke up late around 11 AM! It’s always good to be able to get up late. I love that! Especially after several days of getting up early for meeting or workshop. I woke up with a funny feeling. I felt something was wrong. So, after brunch and a little of nap, we went down to wait for our transport to the airport. I was still having this funny feeling. Something was wrong and I didn’t quite know what that was. But I decided to check my e-ticket, and then I realized it wasn’t my name on the ticket! So, I rushed to the internet café and get my email. I searched and printed other email containing my details like booking codes and itinerary. Then I found out that I was supposed to be on the 11.45 AM flight to Vientiane! My goodness!

We arrived at the airport at 5 PM. Still 3 hours to go. When I checked in, I was told to go and get the ticket printed at the Thai Airways ticket office. So, I went there and I [again] found out that I was supposed to be on the 11.45 AM flight. At last, I managed to get on the next flight at 8 PM. Fiuuhhhh…!! I kept telling the customer service that I really… really need to go to Vientiane because I have a very important meeting to attend. Lucky there was still seats for me. When she handed me my e-ticket, I was feeling so much relief. A REAL RELIEF! I thought, “Now I can really enjoy the duty free here.”

The flight to Vientiane was packed. I spotted only 3 seats were empty. I considered myself lucky to be able to get on to this evening flight. We met Dr. Sigit and Noel. They were on the same flight. The route was short and dreadful. The plane was shaking. It was a bad weather outside. The landing was bad too! It felt like the plane was bumping on to the ground. What a day! At the end of the day I was just being thankful that I reached Vientiane.

Second trip to Vientiane for ASEAN meeting [7 – 9 May 2008]

This is my second trip to Lao PDR. This time, it’s for ASEAN regional consultation on HIV response [I know that sounds so bloody heavy!]. I’ve been invited as a resource person to talk about “Women and HIV”. I am not going to talk about the meeting because it’s booooooooooooorrrrrrriiiiiiiiiiiiiiinnnnngggg. But I really love Vientiane, despite there’s not much to see, I like it as a quiet place. Probably the quietest capital city in the world! Everything is slowing down here. Wide roads, with no traffic jam. It’s just perfect! Even though there’s not much to see, Vientiane is a perfect place to relax. I just wish that it will not evolve rapidly and become the second Bangkok in the next 5 to 10 years.

On the second day, we managed to finish early and the organizer arranged a city tour for us. We went sightseeing to several places like the market, the Patuxai Park, the That Luong Temple; The Golden Temple [it was closed, though] and to the Lao – Thai Friendship Bridge.

The Patuxai Park is located at the heart of Vientiane. It has a high and grande gate just like Champs d’Elysse [I don’t know how to spell it!]. We can actually climb it and see the view from the top. The problem is, there’s no elevator. We have to climb the stairs for about 7 floors up! I was just too God damn lazy to do that, so I just waited for others downstairs, patiently. While waiting for others, I noticed that the gate looked like an unfinished installation. I found out that the gate is apparently new. It’s not really a reminiscent from the past. However, the interior of the gate is beautifully carved with traditional pattern. I guess it would be much more beautiful if they managed to do the finishing touch. Patuxai Park is one of the landmarks in Vientiane. It has a well-groomed park with benches. The names of the company which involved in the care of the park were carved on the marble benches all over the park. Most of the donors were hotels and telecommunication companies.

Next destination is That Luong Temple, The Golden Temple. Too bad the place was closed already. But we could still take some pictures from the outside of the gate. That Luong temple has a high golden top that is glowing. It looked so beautiful under the bright blue and clear sky. At the same area, there are 3 other buildings. Two of them looked like HUGE traditional houses and the other one looked like a temple. We didn’t really get into all those 3 other buildings, we just took pictures outside the buildings because we didn’t know, whether we could enter or not [apparently we could, because some of us did! Darn!].

After The Golden Temple was the Lao –Thai Friendship Bridge. The bridge is connecting Lao PDR with one province in Thailand [I forgot the name]. We really can see Thailand across the river! The bridge is 1.4 KM long and it’s a bridge with the quietest traffic that I’ve ever seen! Maybe it was only 2 cars per 3 minutes or so. The bridge was built by the donation from Japanese government. The bridge was our last destination because it was getting dark already. So, we went back to the hotel. We could see the sunset by the Mekong River. It wasn’t a very beautiful sunset, though, but I still love sunset however it is.

Before we went up to our room, we decided to have dinner because we were afraid that we might get too lazy to go out again afterwards. So, we took a walk towards the Mekong River. There are many food stalls there, selling barbecued cuisine. Baby, Dr. Sigit and I sat and had our nice dinner together while talking about many issues that happening in the country. We talked about the ARV stock out in our country. And it’s always good to have a reliable resource person in this crucial topic. We have got good clarification from him that maybe we can pass along to our friends in the network.

After dinner, we went to see the flea market along the street and ended up buying some things for my friends in the office. The goods were hand-made by some ethnic group at the border of Lao – China. There were interesting goods and mostly fabrics with colorful stitches. The price wasn’t too expensive. It was worth buying, especially considering the money will be utilized by some ethnic groups across the border, it was just too irresistible for me.

The last day of the workshop ended as early as 3.30 PM. Everyone was happy because it meant more extra time for shopping and sight seeing. We finished our “homework” which was a Statement of Commitment. Well, producing a statement is easy but we should really see how the implementation is at the country level. That part usually goes wrong. But I saw everybody was working hard to get the statement done, so I thought there’s nothing wrong in giving them extra free time on the last day. So, we went off to the morning market because the place is still open until 5.30 PM. Dr. Sigit wanted to buy something for his family. There were 7 of us: Rachmat [ASEAN], JoAnn [Singapore], Andrew and Dr. Norlizan [Malaysia], Dr. Sigit and Baby [Indonesia] and me [the double agent!]. We took the tuk-tuk to take us to the morning market. I told everybody that it’s actually within the walking distance, but Dr. Norlizan said that we can walk back to the hotel.

So, my role was a shopping assistant for Dr. Sigit and Baby. And I was succeeded in persuading them to buy cellphones. Dr. Sigit even bought 2! Baby bought one because her cellphone went off and wouldn’t switch on anymore. So, she was really in need of that gadget. We walked back towards the hotel via the China town. There are a lot of antique and handicraft shops there. We took a rest and took some pictures at the pond behind the hotel, then off to the hotel. At 7 PM JoAnn, Dr. Sigit, Baby and I went out to have dinner by the river. We had “riverfood”, not seafood. It was a good deal of meal and all of us were very full and satisfied with the dinner. So good to close the visit with a nice dinner, especially when the room of the hotel was awful, the HBO was off and the phone in the room was dead.

Sabai dee = hello

Krob chai, lailai = thank you very much